Travel
The delights of the Duero River Valley
There is a part of Spain, within a day’s drive of the Algarve, that you may have never heard of, let alone visited. If I’m right, you have been missing something interesting.
I’m talking about the Duero River valley. If you have driven north through Spain, heading for France or Britain, you have almost certainly driven from Salamanca through Valladolid and on to Burgos and Santander or Bilbao or France. You have driven right across the Duero River just south of Valladolid in the small town of Tordesillas.
The Duero River rises near Soria and runs from east to west through the provinces of Valladolid and Zamora before it forms the Spanish-Portuguese border for a while. When it enters Portugal, it changes its name to become the Douro and splashes on west to Porto and the Atlantic.
We all know the wonderful Douro wines – but you may not be aware of the fact that, in Spain, this river nourishes some very excellent Spanish wines, too.
There are a number of DOs (Denominación de Origen) that depend on the special climactic effects created by the Duero. The best known are the Ribera del Duero (home of Vega Sicilia, which is arguably Spain’s greatest wine) to the east of Valladolid and Rueda to the south of Tordesillas, but excellent, though lesser known, wines are also produced in the DOs of Cigales, north of Valladolid, and in Toro, Zamora and Los Arribes, all in the province of Zamora.
The red wines of Valladolid province are primarily made with the Tempranillo varietal and the whites with Verdejo or, increasingly, Sauvignon Blanc. In Zamora province, Tempranillo (here often called Tinta de Toro or Tinta del Pais) is equally as important but Garnacha and Juan Garcia are gaining in usage. Almost all the wines produced in both provinces are single varietals rather than blends and it is only in the Rueda DO that white wines are produced in quantity.
The Toro wines were so prestigious that King Alfonso IX of Léon conceded privileges for their production in the 12th century and Columbus took Toro wine on his 1492 expedition, because it could survive long journeys due to its structure and body.
A group of us recently wanted to experience the various Duero wines in situ, so we used the harvest festival in Toro (Fiesta de la Vendimia) in mid-October as our excuse to spend a week tasting wines, eating some wonderful Castillian tapas and looking at the scenery and architectural wonders of the area.
Our base was the Hotel Juan II in Toro, overlooking the Duero and right next to the magnificent collegiate church of Santa Maria la Mayor, a really beautiful combination of Romanesque and Gothic architecture that was begun in 1160.
Not far away was the impressive Monasterio de Sancti Spiritus, founded in 1307 and home to a lovely collection of religious art and a beautiful Romanesque cloisters. More interesting, from our point of view, was the beautiful alabaster sarcophagus of Beatriz of Portugal, only child of King Ferdinand I and, in 1383, wife and Queen Consort of King Juan I of Castille.
Our tour took us to the Los Arribes DO, a long, narrow strip of rocky slopes along the eastern banks of the Duero on the Portuguese border (the name “Arribes” derives from the Latin ad ripam, which means “on the banks of”). The terroir is so hardscrabble and dry it is amazing that any wine at all can be grown, but, in fact, we tasted some quite drinkable ones. We also had the opportunity to take a cruise in the international waters of the ”Grand Canyon” of the Arribes del Duero. It was quite spectacular.
On our way back to Toro we stopped in Zamora for a walk around the old town, a look at the cathedral built in the mid-12th century, with its graceful cupola covered with scallop tiling, and an excellent dinner in one of the province’s finest restaurants, El Rincón de Antonio, the tasting menu of which was, of course, complemented by very tasty Rueda white and Toro red wines.
The Toro Fiesta runs over four days, and, during it, the town’s population swells from just under 10,000 to about 30,000, with the influx being almost entirely Spanish tourists.
The townsfolk are dressed in medieval costume and the celebrations are capped by the Gran Torneo de Justas Medieval on Saturday afternoon in the very rustic bullring. This is an hour long pièce de theatre, by four knights-errant and their pages, of (simulated) jousting, sword play and various pranks, all played for laughs to the vast amusement of the crowd. Of course, the knight representing Castille “won”, at the expense of the insipid (and probably drunk) knight representing Portugal and the mean and ugly black knight. Cheers all around.
On a political note, our visit was just after the “referendum” vote in Catalonia, and we were struck by the vibrant nationalist spirit in evidence all around us. There were many Spanish flags displayed prominently – a practice that, until now, had been rather frowned upon as being slightly fascist. It was clear that, while the illegal vote may have been divisive vis-à-vis Catalonia, it had certainly brought the rest of Spain closer together as a nation.
Our drive back home on the Sunday (with a boot full of good Spanish wine) was about 750km, all autoroute, and covered in about six hours – leaving time for a good tapas lunch on the way. Viva España!
By Larry Hampton
The mean and ugly black knight having a sword fight with the good knight (in red) representing Castille during the Gran Torneo Medieval in Toro’s bull ring
The Toro Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj), seen looking down on some of the revellers during Toro’s harvest festival
A view of the lovely cloisters in the Monasterio de Sancti Spiritus in Toro
The alabaster sarcophagus of Beatriz of Portugal in the Monasterio de Sancti Spiritus
The mid-12th century Zamora Cathedral
Ancient wine barrels in the vast cellars of the Menade winery deep underground in La Seca in Rueda
A view of the Duero River, with Portugal on the left and Spain on the right
The beautiful 12th Century Collegiate church of Santa Maria la Mayor in Toro
A typical display of the Spanish flag in the Plaza Mayor of Zafra
The Traveller’s guide to themed walks
History, ecology, spirituality – whatever your interest, there’s bound to be a walk to suit you. Mick Webb charts the pilgrims’ progress through this varied region
What kind of themes?
Social history, military history, architecture, ecology: the themes of the footpaths in the Midi-Pyrénées are as varied as the countryside they cross. France’s largest region offers the hiker three pilgrimage routes, a path across the Pyrénées in the footsteps of the persecuted Cathars, a trek through the deep gorges cut by the river Aveyron or a circuit on a plateau to explore the legacy of the Knights Templar. For gentle, hilly countryside there’s the Heart of Gascony Tour, while the National Park of the Pyrénées provides more demanding mountain hikes.
Of specifically ecological interest are eight new nature trails through protected areas of the Lot département. These waymarked hikes vary in length down from a week or more to short strolls such as the 4km circuit of the Saut watermill, one of the nature trails outside the village of Rocamadour; visitors’ guides are available from the Lot’s Departmental Tourist Committee (00 33 5 65 35 07 09).
At the other end of the scale, for total immersion in medieval history and Pyrenean landscapes, you might consider the whole of the Chemin des Bonshommes in Ariège. This challenging hike through Cathar territory starts in the town of Foix, takes you briefly across the border into Spain and takes about 12 days to complete.
Tell me about the Cathars
Catharism was a heretical religious doctrine which became popular in southern France in the 12th century, attracting the wrath of the French crown and the Catholic Church. The bonshommes or “good men”, after whom the path is named were the Cathars’ spiritual leaders and were relentlessly pursued by the Inquisition. Their escape route through mountainous Ariège to the safety of Spain can now be followed at lesser risk by today’s hikers. The first three stages on the French side provide the most vivid introduction to Catharism and the easiest walking.
Starting at the town of Foix, the GR107 takes you across hills wooded with beech to the village of Montségur, whose ruined castle was the scene of a heroic but ultimately tragic attempt by the Cathars to withstand a siege. Beyond Montségur, the path enters the narrow and forbidding Gorges du Frau, before the countryside opens out into Alpine meadows against a backdrop of Pyrenean peaks. For a description of the whole journey to Berguedà see the website chemindesbons hommes.com.
A route for a reason?
Take a pilgrimage. Or three. So popular did the medieval pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela prove that it crossed the Midi-Pyrénées on three separate “chemins”, en route for Spain. The Chemin du Puy, the Chemin d’Arles and the Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen can all be walked today and all show ample evidence of the golden age of the pilgrimage, with their chapels, hospitals or simple roadside crosses, although the most recognisable symbol of the pilgrimage is the ubiquitous scallop shell.
The path from Le Puy (GR65) enters the Midi-Pyrénées across the windswept plateau of the Aubrac before making its way in stages between Conques, Figeac and Moissac, some of France’s most attractive towns and villages.
The oldest of the pilgrimage routes, the Chemin d’Arles (GR653), runs across the Mediterranean landscapes in the southern part of the region, calling at Castres, Toulouse and Auch. It’s joined at Oloron-Sainte-Marie by a variant, the Piémont Pyrenéen path, which leads the walker through the Pyrenean foothills of Ariège, Haute Garonne and Hautes-Pyrénées. (The first section of the route is described, in English, on the website, ariege.com/cheminstjacques.) The GR65 is covered by topo-guides 698, 652 and 653, available from French Ramblers’ Association: ffrandonnee.fr; another useful website is chemins-compostelle.com).
Gentle rambling?
Try Larzac plateau, south of Millau. During the 12th century the Orders of the Knights Templar and the Hospitallers took over vast swathes of the plateau, where sheep farming on the grasslands provided income for their military and religious activities in the Holy Land. Their farms, villages, churches and fortifications are the focal points of two circular hikes, one of six days over 110km on the GR71D, another of four days (82km) on the GR71C. They start from Millau and La Couvertoirade respectively, the latter fully deserving its place among France’s most beautiful villages. Also not to be missed is the Commandery at Sainte-Eulalie, which was the Orders’ centre of operations. For shorter walks (5km to 10 km), rando-fiches (walking cards), are available for €1.50 at tourist offices along the route. (For a website in English, see conservatoire-larzac.fr)
About 200km from the Causses, as the buzzard flies, the Heart of Gascony walk explores a very different kind of countryside: waves of gentle hills, woods and fields of sunflowers. Not that deeds of knightly derring-do are absent as this is Musketeers’ country. The city of Auch, which hosts a fine statue of D’Artagnan is also the start and end point for a circular ramble. At 165km long, it has been designed to be walked in six days, with stops at Castéra-Verduzan, Condom, La Romieu, Lectoure and Montestruc. The most striking buildings are the cathedral at La Romieu and the spectacular Château de Lavardens. This, like the previous circuit is suitable for mountain-biking and horse-riding (website: gers-rando.com; topo-guide D032, le Gers à Pied). To avoid having to book each night’s accommodation separately, it’s worth looking at the package created by the local tourist authorities. Beginning and ending at Castéra-Verduzan, it comprises six days’ walking and five nights’ half-board in two-star hotels and chambres d’hôte at prices from €350 per person.More details at gers-tourisme.com.
I prefer dramatic landscapes
Vast horizons and dramatic valleys characterize this seven day hike on two long distance footpaths: GR36 and GR46. The main focus is on the deep and sinuous Gorges of the Aveyron but impressive in a very different way are the stretches of the walk that cross the unique grassy causses. Along the way are ancient fortified towns (bastides), with tales to tell of the Hundred Years War. The best views of the gorges can be enjoyed on the stretch of the path between Najac and Monteils. The topo-guide to use is the GR 36-46 (Tour des Gorges de L’Aveyron; tourisme82.com).
How about some serious mountain walking?
Head for the National Park of the Pyrénées, where the car-park at Pont d’Espagne beyond the spa town of Cauterets is the starting point for a number of fine walks. The easiest one leads to turquoise Lac de Gaube and unrivalled views of the Vignemale Massif. More demanding and a lot less busy in summer is the two-and-a-half-hour trail up the lovely valley of Marcadau to the Refuge Wallon with the chance of spotting elegant izards, cousins of the chamois. For a walk which takes in several high lakes and great views of the (sadly, shrinking) Glacier d’Ossoue, take the road to the restaurant de la Fruitière rather than the Pont d’Espagne and follow the Vallée du Lutour up to the Col de Gentianes.
At the eastern end of the National Park is the Néouvielle Reserve. Among its rugged walks there is an easy two-hour ramble which links the gorgeous lakes of Aubert, Aumar and Oredon, set in high meadows. Start at the car park of the Refuge d’Oredon, beyond Saint-Lary-Soulan (website: tourisme-hautes-pyrenees.com).
What will I eat?
In the Gascony corner of the Midi-Pyrénées, a good meal will probably include pâté and a dish of preserved goose or duck, the best known of which is magret de canard. On the high plateau of Aubrac, a speciality to look out for is aligot (puréed potatoes, Laguiole tome cheese, garlic and cream), and you must try Roquefort in its local setting.
Toulouse’s favourite is that most substantial of substantial dishes, cassoulet, while in the mountains, there is a soup of vegetables and often ham, whose unappetising name, garbure, belies its flavour. Among the wines worth sampling are Madiran, Fronton, Gaillac, Cahors and Saint-Mont while the fiery brandy from the Gers – Armagnac will help your dinner go down.
SOMETHING FOR THE KIDS
So how do you enjoy a good walk with young children in tow? One way is to let the donkey take the strain, as well as provide entertaining distraction. There’s a week-long circuit starting at the beautiful village of Bruniquel, near Montauban, and continuing through the forest of Grésigne and then down the valley of the river Vère. Overnights are at chambres d’hôte which will look after you and your donkey (contact Loisirs Accueil Tarn-et-Garonne on 00 33 5 63 21 79 61).
Alternatively, you can meander through the valleys of the rivers Lot and Célé in the regional Park of the Causses du Quercy. The nearest city is Cahors. More details from Loisirs Accueil Lot (00 33 5 65 53 20 90; reservation-lot.com). They can also advise you on the option of hiring a horse-drawn caravan for a trip across the Causse of Gramat.
A rather different challenge is to provide children with the right degree of energy-absorbing activity. The sport of Accrobranches involves platforms and ladders and zipwires that take the youngsters (and parents) whizzing through the branches on harnesses. (‘Go Ape’ offers the same experience in the UK.) Try this at Montech, near Montauban (00 33 5 63 64 08 08; agrip-aventure.com); at Pavie, just south of Auch (le Vert en l’Air; 00 33 5 62 05 26 78) and just outside Cahors (Loisirs Accueil Lot: 00 33 5 65 53 20 90).
Fun for all the family is a 21st-century variation on the old theme of the treasure hunt, called Géocache. You roam the countryside, moving from one clue to the next, using a GPS. Géocache can be sampled in the village of Aguessac, about 10km north of Millau. It’s run by the Maison des Accompagnateurs (00 33 5 65 61 24 33; maison-des-accompagnateurs.fr)
in The Independent
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